Salentino runs from Lecce down to the tip of the heel of Italy- it's only about 70km square, but every turn holds a new and beautiful treasure. Mari and Abtonion's friend Giuseppe is visiting from London and he, his sister Sylvia and her boyfriend Vincento have been taking me all over Salentino to see the sites. Even though Giuseppe grew up here, when he visits he's like a tourist hitting all the secret, breathtaking hotspots in a whirlwind. I lucked out meeting him because he and Sylvia are the best tour guides and have loved showing me everything there is to see.
Porto Setvagio is Eden. The name translates to 'savage port' and gets at the untouched haven that it is, but doesnt come close to describing how what its like to be there. It is a wildlife refuge and protected park which you have to hike into to access. The main area is an inlet with calm, crystal clear, Torquise water. Standing on the edge of the rocks you can peer down into the water and see the bottom, as well as fish and sea urchins. In roman times the area was a type of spa due to the aquifer that empties ice cold water into the bay from an underground spring year round. But the gem of the area are the sandstone rocks that erode and create swim-in grottos filled with aquamarine light.
During the 1500s and 1600s the towers served as lookouts for invaders. Mari's comment on this was that they were never very good at defending themselves so the towers served more as town information as to who would be invading when. This watchtower has had many names and uses. One name was Tower of the Leap of the Goat, which I loved and was so imaginitive.
At every turn in this preserve there was a delightful surprise and all of them were beautiful. There was even a truli that you could walk inside. We watched the sunset over Gallipoli with a Rustico (puff pastry disk filled with beschamel, mozzarella and tomato sauce) and a Peroni. Perfect end to a perfect day.
The next day we took a trip to the Vecchia Dolma and Otranto where I had been on Monday during the day. This is me and Giuseppe sitting on one of the largest rocks. There's a legend that accompanies the rocks about an old witch and each rock represents a different part of her house.
In Otranto we went to some of the untouched beaches north of the center of town. Later we went to Otranto at sunset.
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