Monday, March 31, 2014

The Finale

Cutrofiano has been a wonderful, wonderful experience. I've learned how to make cheese, how to milk sheep and how to cook and drink like an Italian (I'm still working on this). Today the final sheep gave birth-

Can you see them?? Triplets! Antonio and Domenico announced this with big, big smiles- it's like a great finale to a wonderful season of lambing. With fireworks in Italy, they often end with three great bangs, which is a serendipitous parallel to our last three lambs.

We celebrated with pizza, beer, and a kind of fritto misto (ie delicious fried things like potatoe mint balls, breaded eggplant meat balls, and actual meat balls- yum). I'm getting ready to leave on Thursday and am definitely going to miss this wonderful little slice of heaven. Not everything has been a walk in the park, but the joy of seeing three happy, healthy lambs and a big healthy mama sheep is an event that makes even the most mundane day end on a happy note. 

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Mother Nature Knows Best

Yesterday, Antonio came and asked me if I would feed a premature lamb some of it's mothers milk with an eye dropper. I had seen photos of this on other peoples blogs from other wwoof farms with sheep or goats, but Mariangela had said they don't usually do this. The first year they were raising sheep, some of the mothers abandoned the babies and so she and Antonio wrapped them in blankets, fed them with bottles and nursed them back to 'health'. Two months later, every lamb that they had nursed was dead. That was when they learned that mother sheep abandon their babies when there is something chronically wrong with them, and after that experience they never tried to alter, other natures course again in such a significant way. 

Yesterday was a different story which is why they made an expectation. This lamb was born as a twin, one arrived still born, and one arrived very small and weak. It wanted to suck, just like the lambs that were abandoned, but the mother also wanted it to which is what made the situation different. 

I was thrilled to be given such an important task- the task to dun-da-dun - save a life! After a quick prayer and preparations of some warm milk and a syringe, I headed down to the pen to play mama sheep. 

It's actually way harder to feed a baby sheep milk than you'd expect. I did this twice before sunset and my optimist heart swears I saw an improvement. This morning I woke up and asked Antonio if he wanted me to feed the little lamb to which he replied 'there's nothing to do, thank you'. I said 'oh it's sucking?' And he said 'no it died'. 

Sometimes, despite all you wish for and all the fairy tale farm stories in the world, Mother Nature runs it's course. It's funny, I thought it would be sad, but it's not. It just is exactly what it is and the world continues to turn exactly as it did they day before and the day before. There's nothing sad about a lamb dying in the night, because that lamb belongs to nature and not to humans. It doesn't suffer human emotions and neither does the mother. And we forget that so easily. 


Being around animals day I and day out has made me think a lot about how I've thought about animals in the past. I can't help but reference the movie Babe which plays in my head like a sound track every single day despite my best efforts to stop it. The movie features a little British pig in a barnyard full of animal personalities, a bit like Charlotte's Web. The chickens are like old gossiping, bossy women, the sheep are the regal matrons the dogs are ragamuffin boys and bullies of the barn yard. Except that they aren't. They care about two things usually and that's food and reproduction in that order. The moment we assign these completely fictitious emotions and dilusional scenarios and roles to animals we've stepped into a bizarre and unnatural territory that will never give a clear picture of the world. 

I really respect vegetarians and vegans who don't eat animals based on the 'animal lover' principle in a way I didn't before. If you have these ideas about animals I think it's essential and inspiring (and slightly dilusional but not really based on the principals of industrial farming) to live them out in a way that impacts your life. If not, then I don't know how you can possibly dream of eating an animal that was calling it's young over because it was getting dirty in the mud and needed a scolding, or it it was bullying it's younger friends. It just doesn't make any sense to me.

In my horrible Italian I had a conversation with the Sardinian shepherd Domenico about how you can't understand nature until you've seen it first hand. Now more than ever, I agree. Mariangela told me about a woman who wanted a lamb but didn't want to see the head, tail, any internal organs etc. and she wanted it cut up until little pieces. Basically she didn't want to know what it was, but she wanted to eat it. This isn't  uncommon in everyday life, in fact i think each of us, me included, puts in our mouths each day at least one thing that we have absolutely no idea what it truly is. None. And yet we happily eat it. But the thing I loved was Mari's reaction to this woman. She said she told her to buy it somewhere else because she couldn't believe the ignorance- 'the ignorance! So stupid this woman!' was what she said and then raised her eyebrows like this woman had asked for one of her kidneys or half her head of hair. I hope to never forget this conversation because part of my experience here is banishing just a tiny bit of ignorance I had about food. I'll never be Mari, but I can try to be just a little but more conscientious about my food. 

Friday, March 28, 2014

Gelateria Natale 


When I get to heaven, I hope the streets are paved in Mustacciolo gelato. In Lecce, it feels like all those little maze-like streets have one perpose: to deliver you to the doors of Gelateria Natale which makes the best Gelato in all of Salento and simply could not be missed. I let my guides choose the flavors because I'm sure local palates have the best taste, but also because I still barely can ready any Italian beyond the basics. But I'm oh so glad I did because I never would have chosen the bizarrely long placard with  'Mustacciolo' written in it if I was all by my lonesome with no experience in this very serious experience. What is it? Mustacciolo gelato is chocolate, cinnamon and candied orange peel and is completely and utterly divine. The texture of the candied fruit and the silky gelato is a combination to die for, and a match made in heaven when paired with pistachio.


As you can see from the photo, I nearly walked out into oncoming traffic more than once before I finished the last tip of the cone.


If your salivary glands have kicked into overdrive reading this Iike mine have, there's good news on the horizon. Mustacciolo is also a cookie from Salento which is a cinnamon and candied fruit combination in a rhomboid shape, coated in dark chocolate. They are first mentioned in a lunch menu for Pope Pius V in the 1500s in Napoli, but these will be making a come back in Connecticut for Christmas 2014. Here's a recipe if you just can't wait but I'm not making any promises. When translated it also says to add ammonia. I'm sure they don't mean the cleaning solution so please don't make these and add ammonia. I want to see all of you when I get back.

http://www.misya.info/2013/12/12/mustaccioli.htm

*please note the first and third photos àre not mine up were graciously borrowed as I was too distracted to take any decent photos. Thank you internet. 

Thursday, March 27, 2014

The Florence of the South: Lecce

Biggest city in Salento? Lecce. And it's barely on the map the way that Rome, Venice Naples are. This city is full of interesting surprises and has elements of three different time periods, Medevil, Greek and roman. Giuseppe, Sylvia and Vincento took me here to experience the best Lecce has to offer, and since Sylvia and Vincento both got their Art History degrees from the university here I could not have asked for better guides.


It seemed as though every corner hosted a whimsical and ornate baroque or rococo church, which could be true since there are over 60 churches in the city of 90k inhabitants. The city's maze of winding streets in the historical center offered a barrage of more baroque adornments, including gargoyls and  coats of arms, with a touch of arabesque here and there. This truly was an art history dream, and I can only imagine what it would be like to study here. Sylvia and Vincento took us to their university for a look around the roof and study areas. To be honest, I don't know how you could look down for long enough to study in a place like this.


The school used to be a monestary which helped me understand why some of the elements of the building seemed so un scholastic to my American eyes.



This is the view from the roof down into the Italian cemetery that borders the school. I have found this really interesting since I've gotten here that Italians do not get buried in the ground, but instead have their own little Mosoleums by family. The more ornate, the richer the family. One grave in this cemetery is of a famous Italian pop singer, but I didn't recognize the name or take a photo. 


Unfortunately Basilica di Santa Croce was under construction and closed (talk about a raw deal) at the time we were there but I took a photo anyway because the facade is absolutely fantastic. It is covered, literally covered, with figures, vegetables and animals and is an incredible explample of hysterical baroque architecture where the adornment of the facade has gone berserk. The church also features rare caged columns which are pretty wonderful to see in person. 

We took a few hours to walk through the streets...


And I took this photo that I probably shouldn't have but couldn't help myself since the nuns and the church and the sunlight were something I wanted you all to see. Don't worry, I didn't use a flash. 

But of course I had to save the best for last, which was the gelato. Gelateria Natale is hands down the best, and was heaven in a cone. I'll post more about it tomorrow when I have time to do it justice. 

Lamb Selfie


This baby lamb was born and then mistakenly got taken to the wrong pasture and to the wrong mother. I got to pick it up and take it over to Antonio and the mother, but not before I took the best selfie ever. 


Here's the happy reunion. The sheep sprinted to me and the lamb as soon as it heard it's cries. The lamb Was born last night. Beautiful and so soft!!!

Monday, March 24, 2014

Salento, et su Contento - Salento, and I'm Happy


Salentino runs from Lecce down to the tip of the heel of Italy- it's only about 70km square, but every turn holds a new and beautiful treasure. Mari and Abtonion's friend Giuseppe is visiting from London and he, his sister Sylvia and her boyfriend Vincento have been taking me all over Salentino to see the sites. Even though Giuseppe grew up here, when he visits he's like a tourist hitting all the secret, breathtaking hotspots in a whirlwind. I lucked out meeting him because he and Sylvia are the best tour guides and have loved showing me everything there is to see.

Porto Setvagio is Eden. The name  translates to 'savage port' and gets at the untouched haven that it is, but doesnt come close to describing how what its like to be there. It is a wildlife refuge and protected park which you have to hike into to access. The main area is an inlet with calm,  crystal clear, Torquise water. Standing on the edge of the rocks you can peer down into the water and see the bottom, as well as fish and sea urchins. In roman times the area was a type of spa due to the aquifer that empties ice cold water into the bay from an underground spring year round.  But the gem of the area are the sandstone rocks that erode and create swim-in grottos filled with aquamarine light.

During the 1500s and 1600s the towers served as lookouts for invaders. Mari's comment on this was that they were never very good at defending themselves so the towers served more as town information as to who would be invading when. This watchtower has had many names and uses. One name was Tower of the Leap of the Goat, which I loved and was so imaginitive. 



At every turn in this preserve there was a delightful surprise and all of them were beautiful. There was even a truli that you could walk inside. We watched the sunset over Gallipoli with a Rustico (puff pastry disk filled with beschamel, mozzarella and tomato sauce) and a Peroni. Perfect end to a perfect day.

The next day we took a trip to the Vecchia Dolma and Otranto where I had been on Monday during the day. This is me and Giuseppe sitting on one of the largest rocks. There's a legend that accompanies the rocks about an old witch and each rock represents a different part of her house. 


In Otranto we went to some of the untouched beaches north of the center of town. Later we went to Otranto at sunset. 



Friday, March 21, 2014

Buongiorno Peccora!!

The sheep each morning pass right by the front porch on their way to the pasture. It's the best way to start  the day.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Festa di San Guiseppe

Like so many holidays in Italy, Festa di San Guiseppe celebrates Jesus' father Joseph, known here as San Guiseppe, and is something like Father's Day in the US. Unlike Father's Day, Festa di San Guiseppe has a dedicated food- the zeppole. And it's not just any zeppole, it's a delicious deep-fried zeppole topped with custard-like pastry cream. Don't be fooled by the picture- these are about 4" in diameter and are absolutely delicious. 


These were the best ones we tried. Over the past 2 weeks I had them on multiple occasions and Mari always offered her insight as to how authentic they were. 


These were baked (apparently but they tasted very, very fried) and they were good, but perhaps out of season? We had these the first week I was here which was a little before the actual festa. 


They're gorgeous and I will venture to say that no one has really had a zeppole before they have one in Italy. The center is full of giant air bubbles, with an almost gummy dough. The outside is crispy golden but surprisingly, deceivingly, light. It's not completely clear to me why this particular food is linked with Father's Day but one explanation is that St. Joseph is also the patron saint of pastry chefs. He just became my new favorite saint. 

Free Time


One lesson I'll take away from my time here is that no one is going to stand up for your free time but you. I get every Monday off but it's something I definitely have to make known that I plan to take, but Mari is more than happy to plan my time off and help me get around. Working with animals means that you work everyday, the sheep don't produce milk just 5 or 6 days of the week, and they dont stop producing milk in the morning just so you can sleep in an extra hour. Being a farmer is a career that is not for the faint of heart, and it makes me feel extremely lucky that we have so many people willing to take on the long, hard and extremely dirty job at produces the delicacies we so easily buy. 

Enough ranting, on my day off I went back to Otranto where I had previously posted some photos of. This time I went to the more populated side and walked around he beautiful waterfront parks, promenades and the castle. During the Turkish invasion the castle was a strong hold but in the end the Turks took the town and slaughtered all men over 15 and enslaved the women and children. It was beautiful inside and has been turns into a maze of tiny streets  and restaurants. I wish I could post all the beautiful views, but because of the issues I'm having with my camera connector, I will have to leave you with just this for now. 


Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Technology Issues

Sad day, I'd been having trouble with the cord that connects my camera's sad card reader to my iPad for a day or two, but today it's completely stopped working. So I won't be posting any new photos until I can get another one and since it's kind of a specific thing, and I'm kind of in a rural area, I have no idea how long it will take :( I'll keep you posted. 

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

What do you like?

I've been asked this a lot since I've been to Italy and it's always referring to food. I'm what you would call una buona forketa, literally meaning I'm a good fork. It means I'm a good eater, and this isn't the first time I've been told I'm a pleasure to eat with because I'll eat almost anything. I think I draw the line with things like blood, but as Jeffery Steingarten points out- there are precious few things that all cultures avoid putting in their mouths. Paper and hair are largely avoided but other than that almost everything is fair game. Steingarten also notes that even babies don't winge ar the site of maggots crawling on rotting meat, so most food avoidances are learned. I've taken his words to heart and eaten most everything that's been presented to me since I've been here. The best thing so far has been the fat surrounding the kidney of a grass fed lamb whichever as like a crispy, sweet, carmel coating over fresh spring water. It was the lightest fat you could imagine and melted in my mouth before it even touched my tongue. 

This begin said, I've found there are some flavors which don't delight my palate, but the difficult thing is they are found everywhere and it's impossible to iliminate an entire food group to avoid them. One is bitterness. I've found this in shell fish, broccoli vegetables, etc, and I'm one of those people to which everything tastes bitter after eating pine nuts for a day or two. It's not that bitterness is bad, it's just that bitterness where it doesn't belong (like a pasta dish, or fish course) is an unwelcome surprise. And more so than other flavors, is impossible to ignore.

Some flavors, textures and temperatures of different foods are ok to cross off your list of edibles. The challenge is how to tell your host or chef why one day you'll eat it and another you won't. I think it's especially difficult when you know the chef's (or family/friend's) 'style' off cooking because it's so easy to be deceived into thinking that it's possible to predict the way it will taste. I am still working on coming to terms with the fact that I don't have taste prediction abilities and still need to keep an open mind. But I  think the best approach to precise targeting of dislikes and likes is done by eliminating tastes, not flavors.  If done this way, you'll never be denying yourself an entire food just because it's unfamiliar, or have had a bad experience in the past. Everyone's food 'road' is different, and it took me a whole 27 years to get where I am today and be able to be open to trying almost anything. It's a joy and a surprise and it makes times with people you don't know so much more exciting because it's a food adventure. 

You took an have your own food adventure today in your own supermarket. Everyone has heir trusty 20 or so ingredients that usually make up their cart, but next time, add just one unfamiliar thing. No, not a flavor of Ben and Jerry's you've never tried, but something unusual like tarot root or anchovies. I hope you discover something wonderful. 

Gallipoli and the Frutti di Mare

On Wednesday, Mari and I found a little free time to make it to the other coast of Puglia- Gallipoli! Gallipoli was gorgeous but befor we go any further, this is not the same Gallipoli where the battle in World War One was fought. That's a totally different Gallipoli- it's by the Dardanelles and I won't be going there any time soon. This is the Gallipoli of seaside resorts, the freshest seafood,a me clear, torquise water. 

Thanks to my underwater camera (which is also drop-proof- praise be! Otherwise I would have ruined it 100x over by now) I was able to sneak to the waters edge and take this photo. The water is stunning, so clear. Even in the deep parts off the docks you can see straight to the bottom. Mari treated me to an apertivo of prawns, raw muscles (called hairy muscles in Italy because the outsides  are covered in hair), nuts of the sea(they look like clams), and oysters. Everything served crudo- raw. And of course the obligatory white wine. 



 


The fish monger loved us because the day before Antonio's wildly energetic and unforgettable sister Ester had been to see him and buy loads of fish to bring back to Rome with her. Mari mentioned the relation when we were buying our fish and we got a bunch of special tastes and extra goodies. It seems this is pretty common in Italy, so if you know someone who knows someone- make that known! 





Gallipoli was a welcome break from the days on the farm which are wonderful and rewarding but also can be long and tiring. Yesterday I was laid out all day with a 24hr flu which was frustrating and made me wish I'd brought more sleeping clothes. It also made me wish I'd brought more vitamins and ibuprofen. But today was another sunny gorgeous day with milking to be done and cheese to make, and as my days here are ticking by, I don't want to spend even one laying in bed. 


Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Adriatic Sea

On Sunday Antonio's sister took me to see the Adriatic at a town called Otranto. It was gorgeous. Here are a couple of photos. 






Tuesday, March 11, 2014

<i>Tiella</i> (or <i>Tiedda</i>)



The best thing about Italy is that all the women are wonderful chefs and teachers some (and of the men are too!). Mari is no exception and has been spoiling me with lots and lots of typical dishes from Sorento. This is a dish that is easy, uses only one pot, and most importantly- it's completely delicious. Try it, you'll be happy you did!!!



Serves 10 

This recipe serves ten but it's important to ink about how many people your re serving and how much of each ingredient you would want for that many people. Also, it's essential that the pan is wide and shallow enough to fit them in single layers, and have the water evaporate. 

10 Potatoes sliced in 1/3" pieces (don't make these too thin! You want the to stay whole when they cook, unlike a gratin where you want everything to meld together)

3 large green onions, white part only

2 kilos of mussels, cleaned and in the half shell (If you buy your mussles whole, pry them open with a knife, cut the foot and flip over similar to how you prepare an oyster. See photos below where Daniele does this expertly) 

2-4 cups of rice, or enough for the amount of people you are serving (a half or third cup per person is the right proportion but you can adjust depending on how much rice you want)

Lots of salt (kosher or sea salt works best)

Lots of olive oil

Pepper, white pepper is possible, but any pepper really is fine

Choose a pan that is wide and shallow enough to fit all your ingredients in thin layers. Pour in enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan, then cover with the green onions. Sprinkle a generous amount of salt over them. This is where you put all the salt you will be using for the entire dish. It's important to be a generous seasoner at this stage- remember, all the rice and potatoes will absorb the salt so it will taste much less salty than you might expect). Layer the potatoes over the salt and green onions. Once you've covered the pan in a single layer, lay down the mussles, again, covering the pan in a single layer. Pour over half the rice and sprinkle with 1/3 of the cheese. Again, lay a single layer of potatoe slices down. Cover with the remaining rice. If you want, at this stage your can add tomatoes and/or parsley. Generously cover with grated cheese and pepper. Gently pour down the side of the pan enough water to cover. This liquid will cook and be absorbed by the rice and potatoes so base your amount on this principle.   Pop into a 350 degree oven, and cook for 40-50 minutes. The rice and potatoes should have absorbed all the water and have a silky risotto texture. Both layers of potatoes should be soft and cooked. The top should be a lovely golden brown, similar to a gratin but better!